We took a ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy to get a sampling of the Asian side of Istanbul. This is a residential and commercial area that is an easy escape from the tourist trap that is Istanbul. Frequent ferries run quickly there. There is a street market, jeweler’s stores (with reasonable prices), bakeries, traditional restaurants, etc. There is not much English spoken here, and we felt we were the first tourists they had seen in months! It was an interesting experience though, and we got some killer photos of the sunset over the Blue Mosque on the way back. We’d like to say that was planned, but, well, not so much.

Misir Carsisi, or the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, is a good next destination after the Grand Bazaar. Walk through the narrow streets filled with everyday shops, and you will eventually get to the Spice Bazaar. Don’t be worried about asking anyone for directions, everyone we talked to was very helpful.My guidebook describes the Spice Bazaar as a “sensory overload” and I couldn’t agree more. There are dozens of stalls selling very fragrant spices, tea, nuts, etc. We got the feeling that this was more authentic then the Grand Bazaar (and no carpet shops!). Just outside the waterfront gate in the Spice Bazaar, Rustem Pasa Camii is a mosque worth seeing.

The Grand Bazaar has over 4000 shops, banks, mosques, police stations, fountains, and restaurants. It is the largest bazaar in the world. As you walk in on Kalpakcilarbasi Cad., you will think it’s just like a shopping mall. This is only jeweller’s row, however. Take a right and dive into the main bazaar area, with shopkeepers nipping at your heels, carpet sellers begging you to have tea with them, etc. (more...)

Taksim Square is the location of some very upscale hotels, as well as the Ataturk Cultural Center. Istakal Cad is the main road leading off from the square, and is an upscale shopping area during the day, and a club scene at night. There is a tram that runs up and down Istakal Cad, but it’s not really faster then walking, and closes early. At the bottom of Istakal Cad (more...)

This underground area is located between the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. It is a huge cave with 336 columns, with walkways leading you around the cave, over the water. Water drips down the roof above, and piped in classical music accompany the funky light show playing off the pillars and water. The cistern was created for the Topkapi Palace - it’s served many purposes, from moving goods to watering the lawn. Watch your step as you walk here, the ground is often wet from the dripping water. Be sure to check out the sideways and upside down Medusa Head at the end of the cavern, whose origin is still debated today.There is a cafe overlooking the water, where there is sometimes concerts. You exit the cavern through a set of a stairs leading to a bookstore, with some English language books.

Before you visit, make sure you have a high enough credit limit. The Palace is the most expensive site we visited in Turkey. Admission to all three sections of it (main entrance, Harem, and Treasury) cost about $30 in 2002. Of course we paid. I understand gouging the tourists (and applaud their understanding of (more...)

The Aya Sofia was built in 532. The exterior was painted blood red by Emporor Justinian to warn potential revolutionaries. The dome was originally a lot higher and bigger then what you see today, but an earthquake just 20 years after it’s construction destroyed it. It remained one the most beautiful (more...)

Our first stop in Istanbul was the Blue Mosque. It’s not actually blue on the outside, but the tiles inside it are. It was the Sultan Ahmet’s response to the Aya Sofia and was completed in 1617.Be sure to (more...)

Unfortunately, there are a few safety issues you should be aware of in Istanbul. Taxis are notorious for ripping off tourists picked up in Sultanahmet or Taksim - make sure the ‘day rate’ is set during the day (one light on the meter, not two). It’s a good idea to ask at the hotel you’re staying at where there is a reputable taxi stand.In addition, be aware that there are other tourist scams going on in night clubs. New ‘friends’ will leave an exorbitant bill. That drink might be drugged. Use common sense, it’s a very, very big city with typical big city safety problems.

We ate two dinners in Sultanhamet, and both were expensive and bland. (in addition, I believe my wife got sick from eating at one of them). The guidebook warned us about restaurants in this area, but they were close to our hotel and we were exhuasted by the end of the day. We ate one meal in Taksim, at Haci Abdullah. It was a delicious local ‘Locanta’ that has been there since 1888. It’s real Turkish food, and has a colorful display of pickles in the window. It’s at 17 Sakizagaci Cad. just off the main street in Taksim.