We took a ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy to get a sampling of the Asian side of Istanbul. This is a residential and commercial area that is an easy escape from the tourist trap that is Istanbul. Frequent ferries run quickly there. There is a street market, jeweler’s stores (with reasonable prices), bakeries, traditional restaurants, ... (read more →)

Misir Carsisi, or the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, is a good next destination after the Grand Bazaar. Walk through the narrow streets filled with everyday shops, and you will eventually get to the Spice Bazaar. Don’t be worried about asking anyone for directions, everyone we talked to was very helpful.My guidebook describes the Spice Bazaar as ... (read more →)

The Grand Bazaar has over 4000 shops, banks, mosques, police stations, fountains, and restaurants. It is the largest bazaar in the world. As you walk in on Kalpakcilarbasi Cad., you will think it’s just like a shopping mall. This is only jeweller’s row, however. Take a right and dive into the main bazaar area, with ... (read more →)

Taksim Square is the location of some very upscale hotels, as well as the Ataturk Cultural Center. Istakal Cad is the main road leading off from the square, and is an upscale shopping area during the day, and a club scene at night. There is a tram that runs up and down Istakal Cad, but ... (read more →)

This underground area is located between the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. It is a huge cave with 336 columns, with walkways leading you around the cave, over the water. Water drips down the roof above, and piped in classical music accompany the funky light show playing off the pillars and water. The cistern ... (read more →)

Before you visit, make sure you have a high enough credit limit. The Palace is the most expensive site we visited in Turkey. Admission to all three sections of it (main entrance, Harem, and Treasury) cost about $30 in 2002. Of course we paid. I understand gouging the tourists (and applaud their understanding of capitalism ... (read more →)

The Aya Sofia was built in 532. The exterior was painted blood red by Emporor Justinian to warn potential revolutionaries. The dome was originally a lot higher and bigger then what you see today, but an earthquake just 20 years after it’s construction destroyed it. It remained one the most beautiful churches in the world ... (read more →)

Our first stop in Istanbul was the Blue Mosque. It’s not actually blue on the outside, but the tiles inside it are. It was the Sultan Ahmet’s response to the Aya Sofia and was completed in 1617.Be sure to attend outside prayer times. Men should be wearing pants, and women should cover their head (if ... (read more →)

Unfortunately, there are a few safety issues you should be aware of in Istanbul. Taxis are notorious for ripping off tourists picked up in Sultanahmet or Taksim – make sure the ‘day rate’ is set during the day (one light on the meter, not two). It’s a good idea to ask at the hotel you’re ... (read more →)

We ate two dinners in Sultanhamet, and both were expensive and bland. (in addition, I believe my wife got sick from eating at one of them). The guidebook warned us about restaurants in this area, but they were close to our hotel and we were exhuasted by the end of the day. We ate one ... (read more →)